Collector's Corner
REVISITING THE ANCIENTS: A Return to Chaco Canyon and Canyon de Chelly – PART I: Chaco Canyon
Sep
Although I have been visiting the Southwest for almost forty years, what originally drew me to this part of the United States, and still does, is the multitude of archaeological sites that can be visited. Having been to archaeological sites in Mexico, Central and South America, as well as Europe I couldn’t resist the lure of those in our own country. It was a decision that kept me returning to the Southwest year after year. Recently, I decided I wanted to go back to the the beginning of my quest. Of course, this meant a return to the Big Three, the holy trinity of Southwest Archaeological sites: Mesa Verde National Park in Colorado, Chaco Culture National Historical Park in New Mexico, and Canyon de Chelly National Monument in Arizona. Ultimately, I decided against a return visit to Mesa Verde simply because so many people have become aware of it and because the perception of many is that it is a sort of archaeological theme park. Instead, I decided to narrow my focus to Chaco Culture National Historical Park. and Canyon de Chelly National Monument. Although this would be my third visit to both Chaco Canyon and Canyon de Chelly, I knew that there was still a great deal to see and even more to learn.
When visiting Chaco Culture National Historical Park and Canyon de Chelly National Monument, it is important to carry water, use sun protection such as sunscreen and a hat, and wear appropriate closed toed hiking shoes, never sandals. In the warmer months it is a good idea to layer light clothing and in the colder months warm clothing is essential.
Chaco Culture National Historical Park, NM:
Because it is remote and isolated, Chaco Canyon takes a bit of an effort to visit, but it is well worth it. Services are very limited and you must bring your own water. There are no hotels or services nearby. The first stop for any visitor should be the Visitor Center where trail guides, which are indispensable, are available for purchase in the bookstore.
The monumental structures built by the Chacoans impress even the most jaded of modern visitors to Chaco Canyon. One can only marvel at the organizational, engineering, architectural, and astronomical skills of this ancient people. The structures that stand in this one huge canyon surpass anything else built in the American Southwest. Between 850 AD and 1250 AD thousands of people inhabited Chaco Canyon, which was the major ceremonial center for what is today the Four Corners Region of the Southwest. For this reason, Chaco Canyon is still considered sacred by many Native American tribes. It was also the locus of a vast trade network, which stretched far south into Mexico and beyond as well as extending north, east, and west. Seashells, macaws, copper bells, turquoise, and cacao were among the most important trade items.
Evidence of chocolate (processed cacao) was found in cylindrical pottery vessels, most of which were found in Pueblo Bonito, the largest of the great houses at Chaco. This discovery indicates a connection with MesoAmerica since the cacao plant only grows in a tropical climate. The fact that most of the jars containing cacao residue were found at Pueblo Bonito may indicate that it was reserved for elites and that drinking it had ritual significance. Less than 200 of the cylindrical vessels have been found and 111 of them were discovered in one room of Pueblo Bonito. Today, the Pueblo Bonito jars are held in Manhattan at the the American Museum of Natural History.
Although much is made of the accomplishments of Chaco’s inhabitants, it appears that something abhorrent took place in the canyon as well. Skeletal remains uncovered in the early 20th century indicated that cannibalism had been practiced at Chaco Canyon. However, this claim was looked upon with deep skepticism by contemporary Puebloan people, who were never included in the discussion by the archaeologists. There was no indication of this practice in any of their oral histories. Upon further study, it was concluded that the inhabitants of Chaco Canyon may have been preyed upon by an outside group that seized power and became the elites. The most likely candidate was the Toltecs of Central Mexico whose society lasted from 800 A.D. to 1100 A.D. It is known that the Toltecs were aware of Chaco and visited it. Throughout MesoAmerica and the ancient Southwest armed long distance traders, called pochteca in Nahuatl, traveled vast distances both north and south from Central Mexico. Based on evidence of exotic goods, it is clear that Chaco was visited by pochteca who were often known to subjugate the people with whom they ostensibly had come to trade. It is also well established that human sacrifice and ritual cannibalism were practiced in ancient Mexico.
For the modern visitor to Chaco Canyon such knowledge offers much to ponder. Additionally, Chaco hasn’t given up all of its secrets. There are many mysteries that archaeologists and other scientists have yet to solve such as the purpose of T-shaped doors.
Most of the pueblos in the canyon are situated along the nine-mile long Canyon Loop Drive. The most important are Una Vida, Hungo Pavi, Pueblo Bonito (the highlight of any visit to Chaco Canyon), Chetro Ketl, Kin Kletso, Pueblo del Arroyo, and Casa Rinconada. In addition, there are 150 outlier sites that formed the Chaco System. Chaco and, in particular, Pueblo Bonito, were the center of a vast system that reached out like the spokes of a wheel. Chaco’s sphere of influence extended throughout the Southwest with many outlying sites connected to Chaco Canyon by a radiating road system that included such Chacoan sites as Chimney Rock National Monument about 140 miles away; Mesa Verde some 135 miles distant, Canyon de Chelly 166 miles away, Aztec National Monument about 69 miles distant, and Salmon Ruins about 62 miles away. What has come to be called “the Chaco Phenomenon” abruptly ended sometime around 1150 A.D. when Chaco Canyon and many of the outlying Chacoan sites were abandoned. The reason for this collapse is not fully understood. A prolonged drought between 1276 and 1299 occurred, which would have caused shortages of drinking water and crops to fail. Other causes such as the tyranny of the elites, or attacks by other groups may have contributed to the downfall of Chaco culture.
T-shaped door at Pueblo Bonito.
When visiting Chaco Canyon’s archaeological sites, be sure to take note of the many T-shaped doors. Though they are found at sites throughout the Southwest and even at Paquime, 700 miles south in Mexico, their purpose remains a mystery.
NOTE: It is a good idea to get to Chaco Canyon as early as possible. The first stop should be the Visitor Center. From there, go directly to the Pueblo Alto Trail to the mesa top. It is best to make this hike early in the day since it is cooler and because storms usually occur in the afternoon. The trailhead is at the Kin Kletso ruin near the Pueblo del Arroyo parking area. The entire trail, which takes three to four hours to hike is slightly less than five and a half miles roundtrip. However, it is not necessary to do the entire loop. To reach Pueblo Alto is a distance of a little more than three miles roundtrip. Most people who climb to the mesa top opt for the Pueblo Bonito Overlook, which is two miles round trip and takes about an hour. The overlook offers an aerial view of Pueblo Bonito and Chetro Ketl. Caution: If you see storm clouds approaching the mesa, leave immediately. In addition to wind and rain, the mesa top is prone to lightening strikes. It should also be noted that the elevation of Chaco Canyon is 6,200 feet and reaching the mesa top adds another 600 feet to this. Anyone with breathing or health issues should not attempt this hike.
The pueblos of Chaco Canyon:
Una Vida.
Una Vida: This Chacoan multi-story great house is in an excellent state of preservation. The trail leading to Una Vida begins at the northeast corner of the Visitor Center parking lot. Along the one mile roundtrip trail, keep an eye out for petroglyphs. Allow at least forty-five minutes for this hike.
Hungo Pavi.
Hungo Pavi: Another of Chaco’s monumental buildings, which have been dubbed great houses, Hungo Pavi is an unexcavated site, Located two miles from the Visitor Center on the Loop Drive, it gives visitors an idea of what archaeologists face before excavations begin. Hungo Pavi has a great kiva, an enclosed plaza, and over 150 rooms. This hike is a quarter of a mile round trip and usually takes about a half-hour.
Overview of Pueblo Bonito from the Pueblo Alto Trail.
Pueblo Bonito: Located four and a half miles from the Visitor Center, Pueblo Bonito is considered the most important site in the canyon and it is the one great house that all visitors feel they absolutely must see. The trail through the site is approximately a half-mile round trip. Allow at least an hour to visit this pueblo. (Having a trail guide is particularly helpful at this site.). This structure is regarded as the center of the Chacoan world and it is truly spectacular. (Note: The Pueblo Alto Trail offers a panoramic view of Pueblo Bonito. See above.)
Chetro Ketl
Chetro Ketl: Not far from Pueblo Bonito, this great house contains Chacoan architectural features some of which are iconic and others that are unique. Here, too, a trail guide is very helpful. This site is the second largest of the great houses in the canyon and contains two and three story structures, a great kiva as well as elevated kivas, and a plaza that rises twelve feet above the canyon floor. Allow at least forty-five minutes to an hour to visit Chetro Ketl.
Kin Kletso.
Kin Kletso: Constructed sometime between A.D. 1120 and 1130, this pueblo was built late in Chaco’s construction history. Oddly, this site does not have a D-shaped floor plan, a great kiva, an enclosed plaza, or other features associated with Chaco’s great houses. The masonry style of this site resembles that of the Mesa Verde area.
Overview of Pueblo del Arroyo from the Pueblo Alto Trail.
Pueblo del Arroyo: Constructed in two stages, this great house does not have a kiva, which seems odd. However, it contains much that is typical of architecture that is found throughout the Chacoan sphere of influence. Allow about thirty minutes to cover the quarter mile trail through this site, which is located five and a half miles from the Visitor Center.
Casa Rinconada.
Casa Rinconada and the Small Villages: The trail through Casa Rinconada and the small villages is a half-mile round trip and takes about thirty or so minutes to complete. Here one can see the diverse styles of Chacoan architecture and building techniques. In addition to the massive buildings in Chaco Canyon there were also villages, which employed architecture on a smaller scale. On the half-mile roundtrip trail through this site visitors can see the diversity of architecture that existed in Chaco Canyon and in the wider Chacoan world. At six miles from the Visitor Center, Casa Rinconada is the farthest important site on the Loop Drive.
Although it takes more effort to visit Chaco Culture National Historical Park than it does either Mesa Verde National Park or Canyon de Chelly National Monument, the rewards for doing so are great. Seeing Pueblo Bonito and being able to wander at will through the ruins of this once great structure are reason enough to plan a trip to Chaco Canyon. Visiting the other sites within the canyon and climbing to the top of the mesa are equally unforgettable experiences.
A Practical Consideration:
Since there are no hotels near Chaco Canyon National Historical Park, two good choices for a base of operations are Farmington or Bloomfield, New Mexico. Of the two, Farmington might be the better choice since it is larger and offers more amenities.
Archaeological sites near Farmington and Bloomfield:
Aztec Ruins.
Aztec Ruins National Monument: Located fifteen and a half miles from Farmington and nine and a half miles from Bloomfield, this was a Chacoan outlier. The site’s half-mile trail allows visitors to see T-shaped Chacoan doorways, intact ancestral Pueblo rooms, and a reconstructed Great Kiva. Although archaeologists have found trade goods connected with central Mexico at this site, the Aztecs did not build it. Instead, it was constructed by Ancestral Puebloans. The site got its name from early Spanish explorers traveling north from Mexico who assumed that any of the ancient sites they encountered were built by the Aztecs. (https://www.nps.gov/azru/index.htm)
Salmon Ruins.
Salmon Ruins: Another Chacoan outlier, this site is located eleven and a half miles east of Farmington and just two miles west of Bloomfield via US Highway 64. In the late 1890s George Salmon homesteaded the land where this site is located and the site takes its name from him. (https://www.salmonruins.com/about.html)
All photographs are by E. J. Guarino.
