REVISITING THE ANCIENTS: A Return to Chaco Canyon and Canyon de Chelly – PART II: Canyon de Chelly

For numerous travelers to the American Southwest, visiting the archaeological Big Three is an important goal.  Many visit Mesa Verde National Park, fewer get to Canyon de Chelly National Monument, and the fewest number make it to Chaco Cultural Historical Park. When I decided to revisit the most important archaeological sites of the Southwest, I ruled out Mesa Verde simply because of the crowds it has drawn in recent years.  I just did not want to deal with them.  Instead, I chose to focus on Chaco Cultural Historical Park (See Part I of this series) and Canyon de Chelly National Monument.

 

Canyon de Chelly National Monument:  (www.nps.gov/cach)

             Canyon de Chelly takes its name from a Spanish transliteration of the Navajo word Tséyiʼ, or Tsegi (pronounced Tsayee), meaning “inside the rock” or “rock canyon”.  When English speakers entered the area, somehow the Spanish pronunciation of de Chelly became the French-sounding de Shay, which has remained to this day.

The ruins found within Canyon de Chelly National Monument were built between 350 A.D. and 1300 A.D.  It was here that the ancestors of modern Pueblo tribes built there homes. The Ancestral Puebloans are the forebears of the Hopi, Zuni, Acoma, Laguna, Zia, Santa Ana, San Felipe, Santo Domingo, Cochiti, Taos, Picuris, Sandia, Isleta, Santa Clara, San Juan, San Ildefonso, Nambe, Tesuque, and Pojaoque.

For most of the 20th century, the Ancestral Puebloans were called the Anasazi, but this term is falling out of use because many contemporary Puebloans consider it disparaging since it is a Navajo word that has been variously translated as “enemies of our ancestors” and “ancient enemies”.

The Ancient Puebloans inhabited present-day northeastern Arizona,  southeastern Utah, southwestern Colorado, and northwestern New Mexico – what is today known as the Four Corners Region – and lived in a diverse range of structures from pit houses to multi-storied pueblos to cliff dwellings.

The ruins within Canyon de Chelly National Monument are predominantly cliff-houses. It is believed that the Ancient Puebloans took to the cliffs for protection against attacks by other tribes perhaps from the Great Plains.

Sometime between 1276 A.D. and 1299 A.D. the Southwest was ravaged by a severe and extended drought, which would have caused crop failures and a shortage of drinking water.  While, for the most part, homes were high in the cliffs, water was far down on the canyon floor, necessitating frequent, arduous treks. Over time, the Ancestral Puebloans abandoned Canyon de Chelly for reasons not completely understood.

Sometime around 1300, the Hopi, who are descendants of the Ancestral Puebloans migrated to Canyon de Chelly where they planted corn and, later, peach trees.  After some three hundred years they, too, left the area and settled permanently on mesas to the west.  About 100 years later the Navajo (Diné) inhabited the canyons.  Spaniards arrived in the area in the late 1500s, and over the course of the next three hundred years, there were numerous skirmishes, battles, and wars as the Spanish attempted to take control of tribal lands.   During this period there was intertribal warfare as well.  In 1805, Spanish soldiers killed 115 Navajo women and children as they sought refugee in what has become known as Massacre Cave in Canyon del Muerto.   The Spanish claimed that they had been fighting with Navajo warriors, but the archaeological evidence does not bear out this claim.

Because of the war with Mexico from 1846 to 1848, the United States Army entered Navajo Territory and in 1846 the first of a number of treaties with the tribe was signed, but the fate of the Navajo did not improve. During the 1800s there were repeated attacks and counterattacks with settlers as well as wars with the U.S. Army. Facing American might, in 1864 the Navajo were finally compelled to surrender and give up their homes because of starvation and the severe temperatures of the winter months. They were forced to walk from their traditional lands in Arizona Territory to Bosque Redondo (Fort Sumner) in New Mexico Territory.  The Navajo were ill prepared for a long, forced march.  Many were already exhausted, malnourished, and starving.  In addition to never being told where they were going, why they were going, or how long the journey would take, the Navajo were cruelly treated by the American soldiers in charge what has become known as the Long March of the Navajo.  Finally, in June 1868, the United States Government granted the Navajo a mere three and a half million acres of what was their own land and allowed them to walk back to their homeland, which was bounded by their four sacred mountains: Blanca Peak (Tsisnaasjini’), Mount Taylor (Tsoodzil ), the San Francisco Peaks (Doko’ooslii) and Hesperus Mountain (Dibé Nitsaa).

For the contemporary visitor, to the Dinetah, as the traditional homeland of the Navajo is called, it is important to know the history that took place within Canyon de Chelly and beyond. One should remember that the archaeological sites were once home to fellow humans who lived and died here, sometimes tragically, despite the spectacular setting. Those coming to Canyon de Chelly should also be aware that these lands are considered sacred.

The first stop for any visitor to Canyon de Chelly National Monument should be the Welcome Center, which is open daily from 8:30 AM to 4:30 PM except Thanksgiving, Christmas, and New Year’s Day.

The best ways to experience Canyon de Chelly are the two rim drives and by taking one of the Navajo led tours into the Canyon, which are well worth the money. Both rim drives start at the Welcome Center and have overlooks that provide excellent views of the canyon below.  Bring binoculars.   Tours into the canyons can be booked through Thunderbird Lodge (https://thunderbirdlodge.com/tours/).  Numerous archaeological sites, petroglyphs, and pictographs can be seen on the tours as well as the homes of Diné families who live in the canyons where they raise livestock and farm the land.

            The only way to enter the canyons is via a tour in one of these all terrain vehicles.

 

Besides seeing archaeological sites that cannot be viewed from the rim drives, a tour into the canyons affords visitors the chance to see rock art from various periods in Canyon de Chelly’s history at stops at Kokopelli Cave and Petroglyph Rock.

 

            Kokopelli cave: Notice the reclining image of Kokopelli, the flute-player, to the left of the cave’s entrance.

 

            Petroglyph Rock: Although horses were native to the Americas, they became extinct and were reintroduced by the Spanish.

            The canyons of Canyon de Chelly National Monument contain over 2,700 archaeological sites.  However, many have crumpled and only thirteen of seven hundred ruins that remain standing have been stabilized.

Canyon de Chelly National Monument is comprised of three canyons: Canyon de Chelly, Canyon del Muerto, and Monument Canyon.  Visitors can see spectacular vistas of red cliffs and canyon walls, which range from 30 feet to over 1,000 feet on the rim drives.

The North Rim Drive (34 miles round trip): This drive follows the rim of Canyon del Muerto and has three overlooks at three important cliff dwellings.  (Currently, Ledge House Overlook is closed).  This drive is recommended for the morning for the best photography.  At least two hours should be allowed for this drive.

Antelope House Ruin.

                        Antelope House Overlook: This overlook offers panoramic views of Antelope House Ruin far below.  It is still possible to see scores of rooms, a tower, and four circular kivas.

Mummy Cave

 

Mummy Cave Overlook: This stop on the rim drive provides a good view of Mummy Cave Ruin, a large structure with a partially reconstructed three story tower.  Nearby are two large caves filled with additional ruins.  Originally, this pueblo contained eighty rooms and possibly as many as three kivas. It is believed that the inhabitants migrated to this area from New Mexico.  This ruin was named for two mummies that were found nearby in urns.

 

Massacre Cave

 

Massacre Cave Overlook: The ruins at this site can be seen from the back of the cave.  The site is named after the massacre of 115 Navajo woman and children that took place here in the winter of 1805 by a Spanish military expedition led by Antonio Narbona.

The South Rim Drive (36 miles round trip): This rim drive has seven overlooks, two of which offer panoramic views of Ancestral Puebloan ruins.  For the best photographic results, it is recommended to do this drive in the afternoon. This approximately two hour drive ends at Spider Rock Overlook.

 

Junction Ruin

 

First Ruin

 

Junction Overlook: A mid-sized cliff-dwelling Junction Ruin is set into a cliff alcove.  If you look carefully, you will also be able to spot First Ruin, which is also set into the cliff face.

 

White House Ruin

 

White House Overlook: The access road, the overlook, and the trail to White House Ruin are currently closed. Check locally to see whether the trail has been reopened.

 

    Sliding House Overlook

 

Sliding House Overlook: Sliding House Ruin is a mid-sized cliff dwelling that is in shadow most of the day.  Much of the adobe used in construction has tumbled down the slope below the ledge on which this ruin sits, giving the impression that the entire structure is sliding downhill.  Hence, its name.

 

View of Spider Rock from Spider Rock Overlook

 

Spider Rock Overlook: Rising 750 feet from the canyon floor at the junction of Canyon de Chelly and Monument Canyon, Spider Rock is Canyon de Chelly’s most iconic geologic sight.  According to Navajo tradition, the taller of the two spires is the home of Spider Women (Na’ashje’ii Asdzaa). It was she who wove the web of the universe and taught the Navajo how to weave and to follow the “Beauty Way,” the balance of body, mind, and spirit.  A paved 1/4 mile walkway leads to the overlook. For anyone with breathing problems, it is important to be aware that the elevation here is over 7,000 feet.    Note: If you would like to see Spider Rock up close, take one of the full-day guided tours (half-day tours do not go to Spider Rock). Tours can be booked through Thunderbird Lodge.  (See above.)

As far as I’m concerned, the best way to experience Canyon de Chelly is to stay at the Thunderbird Lodge (https://thunderbirdlodge.com/).  Owned and operated by the Navajo, it is the only hotel within the confines of the park.  It should be noted that the hotels outside the park are in a different time zone.  This must be kept in mind when booking one of the tours into the canyon.  Depending on the time of year, Arizona has two time zones.  The Navajo Nation, where Canyon de Chelly is located, observes Daylight Saving Time, while the majority of Arizona remains on Mountain Standard Time.  Also, the Hopi Reservation, which is surrounded by the Navajo Reservation, also remains on Mountain Standard Time like the rest of Arizona.

Visiting Canyon de Chelly National Monument can be a unique adventure.  For the curious traveler, it can offer insights into archaeology, nature, and history, including aspects that are tragic and not widely known. When combined with Chaco Culture Historical Park and (if you are not put off by crowds) Mesa Verde National Park, a great deal can be learned about life in this land before the United States of America existed.  It is a humbling and highly recommended experience.

Other sights near Canyon de Chelly National Monument:

 

Navajo National Monument: (Distance 99 miles.) Self-guided and guided tours are offered: The Sandal Trail: This is a self-guided 1.3-mile round-trip paved trail to the Betatakin Cliff Dwelling Overlook. Binoculars are recommended. NOTE: This is the only point in the park where visitors can view the cliff dwelling other than on the guided tours. Betatakin Ruin Trail: A very strenuous ranger-led hike, steep trails are used to reach the ruin. Depending on the trail used, this is either a 3 or 5 mile hike. The Keet Seel Trail: This two-day, 17-mile roundtrip backcountry hike to Keet Seel Ruin, the largest Ancestral Puebloan structure in Arizona, is extremely strenuous. Registration is required.  Limited to twenty participants. (https://www.nps.gov/nava/index.htm).

Petrified Forest National Park: (Distance: App. 100 miles.)  Although best known for fossils, the park offers visitors a specular surreal landscape.  For those interested in archaeology, there’s Puerco Pueblo, located on a 0.3-mile loop trail. This pueblo once had 100 rooms.  Petroglyphs can be viewed nearby.

(https://www.nps.gov/pefo/index.htm)

 

 

Monument Valley Tribal Park: (Distance: app. 97 miles.) If Monument Valley looks familiar the reason is that it was used in numerous movie Westerns, particularly those directed by John Ford. The 17-mile loop through Monument Valley is accessible by vehicle only.   It is also possible to book a private tour with a Navajo guide upon arrival.  (https://navajonationparks.org/tribal-parks/monument-valley/ )

 

Hubbell Trading Post National Historic Site: (Distance: App. 40 miles.)  The oldest operating trading post on the Navajo Nation, Hubbell’s is a fun place to visit.  With its squeaky wooden floors and dim light you feel as if you have stepped back in time.  Hubbell’s Trading Post has been selling goods and Native American Art since 1878. Be sure to ask about a tour of the Hubbell home, which can only be done with a ranger. (https://www.nps.gov/hutr/index.htm)

 

All photographs are by E. J. Guarino.